Occasionally we’ve seen projects run by the Worldwide Fund
for Nature, WWF and as a little joke Dorji tells me that he likes the World
Wrestling Federation. You might remember
that there was a big legal battle a few years back about the trademarked use of
WWF. The wrestlers lost and said it
badly hurt their business, but it didn’t really.
The national sport here is archery and we finally saw
some. They were using modern composite
bows rather than their traditional bamboo ones but I was amazed at the distance
shot and size of target. I think for the
Olympics they shoot from something like 70metres with a target about a metre
across. Here the target is about the
size of a dinner plate and 150metres from the archer and each time the target
is hit there’s a well-deserved victory dance. The
other sport/game we saw is called Khuru which is like long distance outdoor
darts. The ‘dart’ looks a bit like an
old style childrens spinning top with a spike at the pointy end and the shaft
extending back for another six inches or so to a flight. Overall about 10 inches long, about half a
pound in weight and thrown hard and fast.
The target is similar to the archery one but only about the size of a
saucer and the distance is about the length of a cricket pitch (20metres). As we arrived to see a game, I was about a
further cricket pitch length behind the target and one of the darts hit the
edge of the target or a stone and flew past me at chest height about two or three feet in front of me. A bit further
and more than my dignity would have been punctured. Anyway, it missed.
At least here in the capital, Thimpu we finally enjoy some
food with taste rather than the blandy bland stuff we’ve had all trip and I’m
convinced that all chefs serving food to tourists here have to go to the
courses run by the Bland Master Chef winner of the decade. To confirm what I mentioned in an earlier
note, the capital really does not have any traffic lights. In the middle of one junction and only one
junction stands what looks like a
bandstand for a soloist. The soloist in
question is the woman police officer directing the traffic in an almost
choreographed, stylised manner, rather like the buskers we see doing mechanical
men in shopping areas. There were only
two roads leading into the junction though so it was a bit of overkill. Perhaps it really is just a tourist
attraction and at least it isn’t a monastery. Thimpu itself is pleasant enough and similar
to many places we’ve visited but it is just like a medium sized town, although
it has a tremendous textile museum with great exhibits in a beautifully
designed building melding modern and Bhutanese architecture seamlessly. As we stroll back to our hotel, a rock band
is playing in Clock Tower Square, the one with the clock. The line-up consists of drums, two lots of
bongos, bass guitar and a didgeridoo, they’re from Bangalore and very
good. The Tantrics are so good we try to
find info. on the internet but fail.
The country is completely clear of globalisation in that we
saw no International chain hotels or shops.
No McDonalds, no Starbucks, Pizza Hut or Greggs. The only chink in this is English Premiership
Football with the occasional car sticker.
At the market next to the festival in Bumthang (naked monks, remember)
one stall had one scarf and I’m pleased to be able to report that it was an
Arsenal one.
There is what I can only describe as a sort of serenity to a
lot of the Bhutanese people, especially the women and although it is clear that
the population is generally poor we don’t notice the huge gulf apparent in
India where luxurious homes sit next to shacks you wouldn’t think fit to use as
a garden shed. The most obviously poor people
are Indian labourers, mostly women, mending roads with nothing but muscle
power. The big piles of rocks delivered
in heaps are reduced to whatever size required right down to gravel if necessary
just using hammers. Cement is mixed by
hand.
At one point in Thimpu our guide points out the palace to us
and describes it as a ‘modest palace’ which seems like an oxymoron to rank
alongside Military Intelligence or Charlton Athletic, but to be fair it is
quite small.
In this two week trip we’ve seen a surprising number of
dignitaries at close quarters. We’ve
been introduced to one MP and seen another, seen the King’s uncle, the Minister
for Finance, another Minister, the King’s secretary, an area Governor, an
assistant Governor, a couple of retired assorted VIPs and the top religious
leader of the country blessing a line of believers. All of them at not much more than arm’s
length and none of them with any security.
At a trade exhibition I was about
to photograph the Finance Minister at Dorji’s suggestion when an Indian woman
asked me where I was from and started chatting but I excused myself and said I wanted to take my
photo. Later Dorji told me that she was
a visiting high ranking Indian Politician and part of the Minister’s
group. Oops.
We’ve only a few days left and I’m really looking forward to
one of those delicious airline meals.
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